28-50 has been opened by the people behind Texture in Mayfair. It focuses on French inspired dishes made with fresh seasonal ingredients and paired with a wide selection of wines available by 75ml, 150ml, carafe or bottle, allowing you to enjoy multiple tastings with your meal.
The wait staff were attentive and pleasant and asked how I heard about the restaurant, happy that the word was getting out. Owing to the location I expect this to be popular with city workers, a place you could bring clients and have power lunches but it’s unpretentious enough and I felt comfortable here.
The food was top quality and quite rightly so considering the chefs behind it. What I like about the menu is its simplicity, there’s no need to over describe the food, the taste spoke for itself. The wine list was varied but not huge, although it will change regularly to include wine the owners believe to be at their current best. With the option to taste quite a few wines in 75ml tasters and you can almost sit back and pretend for a moment your in a Bourgogne cellar.
We ordered a main, sides and dessert, along with two red wines: The 2007 Dolcetto di Dogliani, Bricco Rosso, Italy and 2007 Rioja Graciano, Bodegas Tobia, Spain. Both were quite acidic at first, but a little while breathing in the carafe and they were gorgeous.
What we ate:
So often I’m disappointed by pork belly as it’s usually less pork and more belly but this was some of the best I’ve ever tasted.
A thin and crispy layer of fat and soft almost ham like pork belly sitting on a bed of cabbage and bacon bits in a rich sweet reduction.
Grey Mullet with parsnip puree, confit of onions and red wine jus.
This was a special of the day and not on the usual menu. It wasn’t a delicate or light dish, it was led by warm hearty roasted flavours using top notch ingredients with interesting textures and nicely seasoned.
A new twist on an old classic. The parfait was deconstructed down to its separate elements and presented in an entirely different way. Chocolate sauce slathered across the plate and dusted in coconut with a scoop of coconut sorbet and coconut ice-cream topped with a thin wafer and surrounded with a chocolate foam.
Not a coconut fan? You will be now!
When you think of a cake you expect a slice but we were pleasantly surprised by this imaginative presentation. A delightfully tiny little round cake, sweet and crunchy, sitting attractively in a large bowl with a scoop of pink sorbet and tart summery raspberries. While it didn’t take us to the heights the main did we were more than pleased with the whole package.
We ordered sides of new potatoes and seasonal vegetables; broccolini, snow peas and oven dried tomatoes. Perfect refreshing accompaniments to the meaty mains.
For 4 people having main, sides, dessert and wine the bill came to £147
I’d like to try 28-50 again in a few months time to see how they evolve but I would certainly recommend it. An excellent kitchen, imaginative dishes packed with flavour and served up with a far and wide range of delicious wines.
This restaurant gets our 5 out of 5 hearts rating for tastiness and service
28-50 WINE WORKSHOP AND KITCHEN
140 Fetter Lane
t: 020 7242 8877